By Jane van Lennep and Fliss Gillott

What sets Rancho Ferrer apart from the rest is the stunning, timeless mountain setting. Stage by stage, this tiny white village has been transformed from ruins to a red-tiled, bougainvillea-decked paradise.

Setting off from Rancho del Ferrer

     This is not an exaggeration. Accessed by a long winding unmade track, the peace and tranquillity of this beautiful spot has to be experienced to be appreciated. It's set amidst arid, semi-dessert terrain with a fascinating wildlife. The steep, stony tracks took us switch-backing up the mountains directly from the village. We were soon at around 2,000 feet above sea level, with the Mediterranean sparkling away to the south, and the majestic, snow-capped peaks of the Sierra Nevada soaring to the north.
     Time has stood still on these rugged slopes, inaccessible to machinery, ploughing between the pink-blossomed almond trees is done by mule. The shale tracks hosted no travellers, and in a whole day's riding, we spoke only to a hermit tending his ancient donkey. The air was always full of aromas, some familiar, most new. Above, soaring on thermals, we could occasionally spot an eagle or falcon. Lunch, taken in the shade of an old almond tree above an abandoned village, was an opportunity to rest and enjoy the rare treat of a warm February sun and cloudless skies.
       A longer day's ride took us even higher in the mountains. Above 4,000 feet, we suddenly saw grass, nourished by heavy dew from the sometime present clouds. As we climbed even higher, the mountainside became much steeper.
       At this altitude, the climate is cooler and the ground is damper. Grapes grow on the ground-hugging vines, to be made into delicious rose wine (stocked in the bar at the ranch!). Boar roam wild, browsing for acorns. They also contribute another local delicacy, ham dried in long, ventilated sheds by the constant breezes.
       The stripped trunks of the cork oaks stood out, rusty red against the beige ground and deeply bottle green leaves. With cloud descending, it was like riding through an enchanted forest. Our mountaineering took us to a roadside café for a delicious lunch of local specialities - ham, omelette, cheeses, bread, wine.
       To stay at Rancho Ferrer is to enjoy rural Spain. It is breathtakingly quiet and unspoiled yet with the luxury of running water and electricity. Because Bill and Margaret are prepared to be so flexible, it is possible to make this a part of a wider travel experience. Just £4 and one and half hours on a bus will take you to Granada and the Alhambra palace for the day. Bill will take you to the bus stop, or to the village or down to the beach. We walked out in the early evening to enjoy the solitude that is such a feature of this isolated spot. In a short time, we developed very strong feelings for this place.

This article was published with kind permission of "Horse & Rider" Magazine.
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Text Copyright © 1999 "Horse & Rider"

 CLIMATE

Southern Spain has a warm dry winter, although the ski slopes high up in Andalusia are only a short drive away. Daily average maximum temperatures vary from 9 °C (49 °F) inland at Madrid to 17 °C (63 °F) at Rancho del Ferrer, near the Mediterranean coast. Average dry days number about 23 - 24, and typically 6 hours of sunshine can be expected.

By late spring, Spain is experiencing settled warm weather, but beware of some rather cool nights. Daily average maximum temperatures will have risen to about 21 °C (70 °F) at Madrid, and 2 or 3 degrees higher on the coast. Average dry days remain at about 23-24, but daily average sunshine hours have increased to about 11 per day.  

In the summer, the Spanish coastline enjoys sea breezes, keeping the temperatures bearable. Daytime maximum average temperatures reach 30 - 31 °C (86 - 88 °F), a good 11-12 hours of sunshine can be expected each day, and there are about 28 dry days on average

The early part of autumn serves as an extension of summer, daytime maximum still well up at about 28 °C (82 °F) on the coast, and the sea is still very warm. By November, the daytime maximum will have fallen back to about 20 °C (68 °F). Daily sunshine values will be at about 5-6 hours, coupled with about 24 dry days.

 SPARES

Rancho del Ferrer carries a wide range of spares to deal with any eventuality. We can also put you in touch with main dealers where prices are on average one-third less than in the UK. Why not stock up while you are here?